Install Instructions
Every kit ships preassembled. Mounting is the same on any vehicle. Wiring is where trucks differ, so the final hookup is left to you — here's how to do both, plus the RGB bulb swap on video.
What's in the box
- Assembled light, lens fitted
- Front mounting plate
- Backing strip
- Nuts and washers
- Wiring pigtail
Mounting
Same on every vehicle. The plate clamps through the headliner over your existing dome light opening.
Open it up
Drop the headliner if your vehicle has one. No headliner? Drill your own mounting holes through the plate, or mount it however your build calls for.
Sandwich the plate
Take the nuts and washers off the back of the front plate. Line the light up over the old dome light opening. Backing strip behind the headliner, front plate with the lenses in front of it, headliner in the middle.
Tighten it down
Check the threads pass through every layer, fit the washers and nuts, and snug them down. Then stop. Overtightening cracks glass and dimples a headliner.
Wiring
Two wires. Where they go depends on your vehicle.
Power and ground
The black/red wire is power. Take the existing ground wire and attach it to the back of the plate.
Pick a circuit
Most people tie into the dome light wiring or the cargo light switch. These are universal kits, so configurations vary by vehicle — the final hookup is left to you so it can be wired to your setup.
Insulate the screws
Put electrical tape or rubber insulation on the backs of the mounting screws. Without it a screw can ground out against the cab, and you'll chase a fault that isn't in the light.
Swapping the RGB bulb
Eighty seconds, start to finish. Watch it once, then work through the steps.
No sound on this one — the steps below are the instructions.
Cut the power
Switch the light off at the door or the cargo switch before you touch anything. If it's been on, give the bulb a minute — LEDs still get warm.
Take the lens off
Lift the glass lens off the chrome base and set it somewhere it can't roll off. It's real glass, not plastic.
Pull the old bulb
The bulb sits in the socket at the center of the base. The video shows the motion — watch it once before you start pulling.
Seat the RGB bulb
Line the new bulb up with the socket and push it home until it seats. If it feels like it needs force, it isn't lined up — back it out and try again rather than leaning on it.
Test before you close up
Power it back on and run through the colors while the lens is still off. Much easier to fix a loose bulb now than after the headliner is back in. Then set the lens back on and seat it evenly.
Bulb won't light after the swap? Nine times out of ten it's the bulb not fully seated, or the ground. Check both before you assume the bulb is dead — and if it still won't light, email us and we'll sort it.
Changing a lens
Clear, smoked or colored — the base stays where it is, only the glass changes.
Power off, lens off
Switch the light off first, then lift the old lens off the chrome base.
Seat the new lens
Set the new lens squarely on the base and seat it evenly all the way round. Don't force a corner down — an uneven seat is how glass chips.
Check it
Power it back on and look at it from a few angles before you put the headliner back. A lens that isn't seated shows as a bright seam.
If something isn't right
Start here. If none of it fixes it, email us — we build these by hand and we'll stand behind it.
Nothing lights up at all
Work through it in this order:
- Bulb seated. Pull it and reseat it. This is the most common one.
- Ground. The ground has to make metal-to-metal contact with the back of the plate. Paint, powder coat and tape all stop it working.
- Screws grounding out. If you skipped the tape on the mounting screws, a screw touching the cab can kill the circuit.
- Fuse. Check the fuse for the circuit you tapped.
It lights up white but won't change color
Reseat the bulb and check your ground first — those two account for most of it. If it still won't cycle, email us your order number and a short video of what it's doing. There are a few possible causes and we'd rather work through it with you than have you guess at it.
It flickers or cuts out over bumps
That's almost always a connection, not the light. Reseat the bulb, then check the ground and any crimps you made. A crimp that holds insulation instead of wire will work on the bench and fail on the road.
The lens won't sit flush
The bulb isn't all the way down in the socket. Take the lens back off, seat the bulb properly, and try again. Don't press the glass down to close the gap.
One light works, the other doesn't
Swap the two bulbs. If the fault moves with the bulb, it's the bulb and we'll replace it. If it stays with the housing, it's the wiring to that side.
Need a part, not an answer?
Spare lenses, RGB bulbs and replacement hardware are all in the shop.